In The Atlantic magazine article “The Moral Crusade Against Foodies,”
B.R. Myers contends that foodies – someone with a refined interest or
job in the food industry – have added an unnecessary level of elitism to food
culture, “It has always been crucial to the gourmet’s pleasure that [the
foodie] eat in the ways the mainstream cannot afford.”
While there was always some
level of elitism amongst the leaders in the food industry -- I believe now more
then ever there is a separation of class in the food world -- due in large part
to the reality cooking TV boom of the last decade.
Take a look at one of cables
most prominent foodies, Anthony Bourdain. Myers argues that the foodie “in
values, sense of humor, even childhood experience, its members are as similar
to each other as they are different from everyone else.” Bourdain is certainly
different from everyone else. He’s brash, unfiltered and extravagant. In a
recent interview with Playboy
magazine, Bourdain wasn’t shy about speaking his mind on his fellow TV chefs
Emeril Lagasse, Bobby Flay and Wolfgang Puck: “I don’t understand why these
guys would make this candy-colored sort of crowd pleasing television.”
Instead of catering his show
towards the cooking needs of his viewers, Bourdain travels the world sparing no
expense, eating foods in places the average viewer could only dream of
visiting. Anthony Bourdain has used his new found celebrity and the popularity
of No Reservations to try and hold
Americans to a higher culinary standard, something that might be out of reach. In
a New York Times article “Unsavory
Culinary Elitism” Bourdain rips Paula Deen: ““telling an already obese nation that it’s O.K. to eat
food that is killing us.” Deen responds to the loudmouth Bourdain’s
criticism of her show:
““Not everybody can afford to pay $58 for prime rib or $650
for a bottle of wine.”
And not every foodie can aspire to eat at the level of
Anthony Bourdain.
At the end of Myers piece he says “[Foodies are] not all
bad.” Enter Julie Powell. The line between aspiring foodie and food star was
blurred when Powell’s blog detailing her quest to cook like Julia Child for one
year resulted in a book deal…and then a film. Class separation in the food world
is inevitable. Powell’s story shows that the average cook can garner attention
in the food world, even if they aren’t a Top Chef or have the character and
resources of an Anthony Bourdain.
So where exactly do Bourdain and Powell fit into the
foodie hierarchy?
I’ve created a foodie pyramid to better define the term:
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